PICASSO, A SUIT OF JADE AND KANSAS CITY BBQ
March 18, 2018
THANKS TO THE BIRTHDAY GIFT THAT LILOU OFFERED ME we found ourselves on a Delta flight to Kansas City (KC) to visit the Nelson Atkins Museum’s exhibitions of Through the Eyes of Picasso and A Jade Suit for Eternity, this time without the presence of our good friend, the Museum’s Director, Julián Zugazagoitia, away on a family Spring Break skiing trip. After our return to Los Angeles it began to dawn on me that this was not a random series of events that we had attended but that, in the words of our dearest favorite cosmologist, Stephen Hawking, this was indeed a singularity. Not “a point at which a function takes an infinite value, especially in space-time, when matter is infinitely dense, as at the center of a black hole”, which nobody but him, and a few others, understood, but rather, as I saw it, “a moment when a small change can cause a large effect.” “What is it about these three events that we experienced in Kansas City – I asked myself - that makes them related to each other?” “Why do I have a feeling in my gut that this experience was different from others?” “How, I pondered, are these cultural activities intimately interconnected?” “How do they affect me?”
I HAD A DIFFICULT TIME ANSWERING THESE QUESTIONS because the answer apparently was not simple. At first glance these events were not interconnected: Two of them are art exhibitions (Picasso, Jade) but one of them (BBQ) is food. Two of them deal with basic feelings (BBQ, Picasso’s love of African Art) but one (Chinese Burials) does not. I felt the need to explore these ideas further and to try to uncover where the emotional experience had intertwined with the intellectual one smack in the middle of the United States and what lesson could be culled from this.
PERHAPS KANSAS CITY’S HISTORY HAD SOMETHING to do with this? As befits someone who studied at a Lycée, I discovered that a Frenchman, Etienne de Veniard, Sieur de Bourgmont, deserted, at the beginning of the 18th century, his French expeditionary post in the area, took up keeping house with a native American wife, and wrote a treatise describing the area as the junction of the "Grande Rivière des Cansez" (note the French archaic spelling of Kansas) and the Missouri River. Little did Etienne know that he had given a name to a locality that was going to become the starting point of three very important trails - the Santa Fe, the California and the Oregon - crucial to the westward expansion of the United States, where all the Westward Ho! settlers started their long trek to the Pacific Ocean and the Lands of Promise. Then, there was the Missouri Pacific railroad, which was (importantly for my tale) built mainly by Chinese laborers, that were brought from China to the US, almost as slaves, and reached Kansas City; the first bridge railroad over the Missouri River was built here; and it was also here that the railroad tracks from the East and the West finally connected, abolished, once and for all, the legendary Pony Express, and created a US transcontinental railroad link, along with the second biggest train center and the second largest stockyard in the United States, both after Chicago; and that, of course, brought the abundance on cattle (also important for my tale).
But Kansas City is not famous only because of its 19th century hubs. Important events happened here, such as Walt Disney creating his first ever cartoon (a dancing mouse) at the Laugh-O-Gram store, after attending the Kansas Art Institute, since his family was from nearby; Charles Lindbergh created TWA and made KC its world headquarters; the Kansas City Chiefs participated in the first ever Super Bowl in 1967 (losing to the Green Bay Packers, as I recall.) Oh, and President Truman was from Missouri; President Eisenhower, who followed him, was from Kansas. And not far away Winston Churchill gave a speech where he used the words “an Iron Curtain” for the first time. There is a lot of history to be told about KC. And then, there is, of course, KC BBQ.
A LOT OF HISTORY CAN ALSO BE TOLD ABOUT THE HAN DYNASTY and the treasures being exhibited at the Museum. When the word Han is used, it is almost synonymous with Chinese, since its long history, according to legend, goes back almost five thousand years; but archaeologically it has been dated to around the second century before our current era (BCE). The Han is in present day Shaanxi, province in China, well known to us because its, capital Xian, is close to where the tombs with thousands of clay soldiers were discovered; and because it is a very large Chinese Muslim center. The kingdom of Chu was a vassal state of the Han Empire and their burial construction techniques were astounding. One mausoleum, that of Liu Zhu, has a 56 meters long corridor with a change in elevation less that one half centimeter, and a deviation of only 1/16000 from a straight path, as measured by contemporary lasers. Two parallel corridors only deviate 5 mm from their central axis. Let’s not forget that these craftsmen were working over 20 centuries ago, in an extremely confined space, with only hammers and chisels. Archaeologist have found many objects in those Han tombs, although 9 out of 10 are empty because they were robbed in antiquity. Yet, extraordinary objects have been found including a burial suit made of jade.
THE CHINESE CONSIDERED JADE A MOST PRECIOUS MATERIAL, even more precious than gold; its quality cannot be judged today except by the most knowledgeable experts. Jade suits were the highest level of burial clothing worn by members of the Han dynasty ruling class and curators believe that many fine objects of luxury, used in the palace for other purposes, were transformed into pieces of jade for the suits. Many suits were produced during those times and several have been found. Because there were so many grave robberies in antiquity, the Emperor ruled that the burials should become extraordinarily simple since the purpose of the objects - to help the deceased in the afterlife – disappeared when the graves were robbed. Therefore, although several suits exist, only a few are exceptional. The one in the exhibition is considered the summit of all suits
The Liu Zhu jade suit - 1m76 long - was dragged out by grave robbers once its gold thread was pulled out. It is composed of 4,248 pieces of jade attached with gold thread and uses over 1.5 kilos of gold. The largest pieces of jade are nine square centimeters or about 3 x 3 centimeters. The pieces are very thin, some about one millimeter thick; they vary in shape (square, rectangular, half-moon, triangular) and are polished almost to a mirror gloss with small holes for the gold thread. This jade suit is the earliest to have been found with the largest quantity of jade plates, the best quality of jade and the most refined craftsmanship. The work of the curators and conservators is almost as astounding as the work of the craftsmen or women who created it. Although, originally, the plates had numbers inscribed in the back, time and humidity erased many of the numbers, so the suit had to be painstakingly reconstructed from all the pieces until they fitted perfectly, as we saw it in the Museum. The color of the jade is consistent throughout the suit.
ALTHOUGH EVERYONE SPEAKS OF PICASSO AS A SPANISH PAINTER the fact is that when he was 19 he travelled to see his painting The Last Moments being exhibited at the 1900 Paris World Fair and promptly moved to Montmartre. He did go back to Catalonia from time to time in the next few years but for practical purposes he settled in Paris in 1904 where he spent his early life and then moved to southern France for the rest of his life. It was in Paris that he went for the first time to the Trocadero Museum in 1907, which at the time housed a collection of so-called “Primitive Art.” The Europeans, in their terribly misguided Eurocentric view, considered European Art as the most refined manifestation of art in the world and anything that did not attempt to reach that image was considered by most as below grade and therefore “primitive:”. But there were some illuminated spirits, such as Derain and Matisse who were already buying African art. Picasso had seen an exhibition of Iberian archaeology but it was his visit to the collections of Africa, Middle America, Oceania and New Zealand that had an overwhelming influence.
A poster in the exhibition quotes him,” …I understood why I was a painter. All alone in this dreadful museum, with masks, redskin dolls, dusty manikins. Les Demoiselles d’Avignon may well have happened that day…” This is a momentous statement. The experience so transformed his life that he became a life-long collector of this art and the influence in his work became all encompassing. And not only him but others. The dealer Paul Guillaume, at the Barnes Foundation in 1926, said that “primitive African Negro sculpture was the inspiration for the best that contemporary art was producing and included Picasso, Matisse, Modigliani and Soutine among the artists influenced by this art.”